Fix a Gripper Handle
Here are the steps. Read them all before starting. This is easy.
- WEAR EYE PROTECTION and have a smooth rag (like a piece of t-shirt) with a small cup of water.
- With the loose handle still on the spring, use a combination square to record the mounting depth of the secured handle. If you don't have a combination square then just use a ruler and do your best to record the distance to any landmark. (Top of the handle, center band, the bevel, end of the handle, anything that makes sense.)
- If there is chonky glue on the spring, sand/scrape/file it off. Scratching the spring doesn't matter and actually serves to give the glue more engagement. Don't worry about the inside of the handle as long as it slides onto the spring.
- Flip the gripper over so the loose side is now where you took the measurement. (Springs are not symmetrical so this matters for how you took the measurement.)
- Wet the towel and rub water on the spring leg. Think more like you're "introducing moisture" rather than "getting the spring wet". You don't want excess water. Do not put water inside the handle. (Many super glues do not require this step. Read the instructions. Gorilla glues cure by pulling moisture from the environment and it takes very little.)
- Tip the handle and squirt glue down in the hole. You can accidentally use too little and get a weak bond, so lean toward a risk of too much. Excess glue just comes out the top as a mess or gets pushed into the bottom of the handle. (WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. It's possible that glue can squirt out when you push the handle on.)
- Turn the handle a few times to spread glue around, then use the combination square to push it into place. Don't waste time here, some glues tack up QUICK like within seconds.
- Let sit undisturbed for at least 24 hours (or per the glue instructions).
Ideally you want a thin super glue (officially called cyanoacrylates or CA glue). There are tight tolerances between the spring leg and handle so stay away from gels or thick two-part epoxy options which need larger gaps.
Glues with a higher level of methyl cyanoacrylates are better for metal. (Permabond 910 is an excellent choice, although expensive.) Most glues are an unknown proprietary mix of methyl and ethyl cyanoacrylates, but if the bottle is labeled for bonding metal then it likely has some level of methyl contents.
We have found this blue bottle of Gorilla Glue with the "impact-tough" hammer to be inexpensive, readily available, easy to use and effective.